Mourning jewelry, a poignant form of Victorian expression, transcended mere adornment to become a tangible connection to lost loved ones. Originating centuries ago, this practice gained significant popularity during the eighteenth century and reached its zenith under the reign of Queen Victoria (1820-1914), who became the iconic figure of mourning. This blog delves into the historical significance of Victorian mourning jewelry, Queen Victoria's personal grief, and the profound impact it had on fashion and social norms during that era.
Queen Victoria: The Monarch of Mourning
Queen Victoria's life took a drastic turn with the death of her beloved husband, Prince Albert, in 1861. This profound loss plunged her into a mourning period that lasted an astonishing forty years. The Queen's grief was palpable, as she withdrew from political life and enveloped herself in black widows weeds, demanding the same from her children. Her private world became a shrine to Albert's memory, and her mourning extended to the entire country.
The Grieving Monarch: A Personal Perspective
Victoria's grief was all-encompassing. The emotional and physical bond between spouses vanished with Albert's death, leaving the Queen overwhelmed. Descriptions from that time, like Victoria collapsing to the floor and cradling her youngest child in Albert's nightclothes, paint a vivid picture of her personal agony. The Queen's mourning extended beyond attire; she insisted on maintaining her husband's rooms at Balmoral as if he would return at any moment.
Mourning in the Victorian Age: A Cultural Shift
Victoria's grief wasn't only personal but influenced the entire nation. Her strict adherence to mourning attire and jewelry set the tone for the era. Until around 1880, she mandated that only mourning jewelry could be worn in the court. The Queen's dedication to mourning created what has been described as "the Cult of Mourning," where societal conventions, fashion, and daily life were infused with the solemnity of loss.
During the Victorian era, mourning jewelry transformed into sentimental tokens for the departed, featuring symbols like willows, angels, clouds, and initials. Women adhered strictly to mourning dress codes, wearing black for the initial "deep mourning" phase lasting two to three years, later transitioning to darker colors. Incorporating the deceased's hair was common, using materials like jet, vulcanite, and gutta percha. White enamel symbolized the death of an unmarried female or a child, while pearls represented children, signifying tears. Turquoise conveyed the sentiment of "thinking of you," and affluent families adorned mourning jewelry with precious stones for their loved ones.
Materials and Aesthetics of Victorian Mourning Jewelry
Queen Victoria's preferred material for mourning jewelry was black jet from Whitby, Yorkshire. Its hardness and difficulty to work with made it expensive, leading to alternatives such as black glass, which was more accessible and affordable. Other materials like Onyx, Vulcanite, Gutta Percha, and Bog Oak also found popularity. These materials, with their dark aesthetics, reflected the somber mood of the time.
Victorian Era Hair Jewelry
Hair jewelry, a popular trend in the Victorian era, was crafted to contain locks of a beloved person's hair. Victorians revered hair for its perceived sacred quality, believing it encapsulated a part of the individual's essence and symbolized immortality due to its enduring nature. This versatile material was utilized in intricate miniature scenes, braided chains for watches and pendants, and even large framed memorial artworks. By the mid-1800s, England annually imported 50 tons of hair to meet the demand for memorial jewelry and art, highlighting the enduring fascination with this sentimental practice.
A pendant featuring agate and diamonds was specially commissioned by Prince Albert for his wife, Queen Victoria to commemorate the passing of her mother. He presented the pendant, which included a miniature photograph, a lock of her mother's hair, and a poignant inscription from Albert.
Symbolism in Victorian Mourning Jewelry
Traditionally, mourning jewelry featured macabre symbols like skulls, crossbones, and reapers. However, Queen Victoria introduced a shift towards more delicate symbols, such as flowers, hearts, and miniature portraits of the deceased. These motifs emphasized love and remembrance over explicit reminders of death. Victorian mourning jewelry often incorporated symbols that reflected themes of mortality and remembrance, transforming the aesthetic of these pieces.
Cultural Impact and Broader Trends
The entire late Victorian era was characterized by the pervasive influence of mourning, with Queen Victoria as its central figure. Beyond personal expression, mourning jewelry became a cultural phenomenon, impacting social conventions and fashion trends. The Queen's enduring grief shaped not only her personal choices but also influenced the broader cultural shift towards incorporating mourning into daily life.
Legacy of Victorian Mourning Jewelry
In conclusion, Queen Victoria's mourning jewelry transcended its initial purpose, leaving an indelible mark on Victorian culture. The Queen's personal tragedy led to a significant cultural shift, with mourning becoming a visible and accepted part of societal norms. The use of dark materials and symbolic motifs in these pieces not only expressed individual grief but also paved the way for a new era in fashion and social expectations. Even today, collectors and historians find fascination in the enduring legacy of Victorian mourning jewelry.
